Cosplay Project Overviews

Crafting Felo’melorn: Making TranspArt Blades

Spherical three of the Worbla’s TranspArt Contest

I crafted Felo’melorn for the third and last round of the TranspArt Competition placed on by Worbla.com.

For the ultimate round we have been capable of construct anything we appreciated using the materials sent to us, and then make a tutorial about our course of. My entry for the earlier round– The Sword of Hearth and Ice– was surprisingly fashionable, and I acquired a number of questions about how I made it. Particularly, individuals have been interested within the hole blades, and how I made my venture glow.

Due to this I needed to make a challenge in an identical vein. Since I’m very invested in Blizzard cosplay, and so lots of their weapons have a glowy magical blades, I decided to go together with something from the World of Warcraft Universe. In honor of Legion — the new enlargement that releases in August — I needed to craft one of many new, tremendous highly effective, Artifact Weapons.

I’ll not have a Mage in recreation, but I fell in love with Felo’melorn, Satisfaction of the Sunstriders the minute I saw its design. For my build I made a decision on the blue and gold model (because it comes in several colours).

We got:

  • 1 Medium Sheet of TranspArt
  • 1 Medium Sheet of Worbla‘s Best Artwork
  • 1 Pair of Heat resistant gloves
  • A set of silicone fingertips
  • A set of Earth Magnets
  • 1 small bottle of Flexbond (I promptly misplaced this, but I had been planning on making an attempt it out anyhow, so I bought a medium bottle.)

I also used:

  • EVA Foam
  • Adafruit Neopixel Strip (1/2 a foot)
  • Adafruit 3V Trinket Professional
  • A Soldering Iron
  • 1″ PVC Pipe
  • Airbrush & Airbrush Paint

For specifics on my common supplies, take a look at my Materials & Instruments Web page.

Reference & Blueprinting

One of the really nice issues about crafting issues from World of Warcraft is that there’s a 3D mannequin viewer for every merchandise on Wowhead.com. This allowed me to get some nice screenshots of the sword from a number of angles.

I then took the display photographs into Adobe Illustrator to make vector blueprints (Inkscape is a free various). This enables me to scale it, and print it out as templates for my foam and transpArt shapes.

Free Felo’melorn Blueprint

You too can make your very own Hearth Mage Artifact! I’ve made my blueprint for this venture a free download in my retailer.

Making the Blade

I made a video tutorial showcasing my technique of creating hollow TranspArt blades utilizing a soldering iron to ‘weld’ the sides collectively.

You may as well fill these blades with resin, colourful material, or cowl them in more TranspArt to appear to be hearth; corresponding to I did with my Sword of Hearth and Ice.

There are all types of prospects, and super cool tasks you can also make with this technique!

Electronics

I exploit a reasonably comparable electronics set up for my builds like this. I plan on making a more exhaustive publish about arduinos and neopixels and such, however I’ve been so busy that it keeps getting postpone. (Quickly™)

Anyhow I hope that a bit of of what I present here will help out.

So this is the blade after it was warmth welded collectively. I usually wish to run my strip of Neopixels (programmable LEDs in a sequence) down the backbone of my blade so that it points down into the extra fascinating areas. Then I superglue it down so it doesn’t move round.

That is my primary setup: an Adafruit 3V Pro Trinket (my arduino), and a JST change that gets related to my battery. The change enter (+) from the JST change goes into the 3V pin on the Professional Trinket as well as connects to the wire (coloured purple) that may get soldered the constructive pad on your Neopixel Strip. The bottom (-) from the JST change goes into the G pin (ground) on the Professional Trinket in addition to connects to the wire (colored black) that may get soldered the adverse pad on the Neopixels. The third wire comes out of pin 6 on the Pro Trinket, and might be soldered into the Knowledge In pad on the Neopixels.

That is your Neopixel strip. You need to solder to the top that has the arrows going away from you because that is the path of knowledge movement. On this photograph the highest pad is 5V (+) — it really works with 3V, but is dimmer. The center pad is the Knowledge In pad which carries the signal that tells your lights to do issues. The underside pad is Ground (-).

That is what it seems like operating the essential Strand Check that’s out there within the Adafruit Arduino IDE. I tried diffusing the sunshine with some material, nevertheless it didn’t work as well as I needed.

The next drop down accommodates the code I used in the last model of Felo’melorn.

Code for Flickering Hearth

This was written for an Adafruit Professional Trinket utilizing the Adafruit Arduino IDE in C++,  so simply to be protected I can’t assure it’s going to be just right for you.

#embrace

const int buttonPin = 18;     // the variety of the pushbutton pin
const int ledPin =  13;      // the number of the LED pin
const int strandPin = 6;
const int neopixelNumber = 60;   //[INSERT # OF NEOPIXELS YOU HAVE HERE!]

Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(neopixelNumber, strandPin, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800);

int mode = 0;
int max_mode = eight;
int lastButton = 1;
long lastMillis = 0;
int brightness = 128;
uint32_t fire_hot = strip.Shade(200, 200, 255); // mild blue
uint32_t fire_cool = strip.Shade(zero, zero, 255);  // blue

uint32_t lerp(uint32_t color0, uint32_t color1, int alpha);

int spotlight = zero;

void setup()
strip.begin();
strip.show(); // Initialize all pixels to ‘off’

void loop()
hearth();
strip.present();

void setPixel(int i, uint32_t shade)
int purple = (colour >> 16) & 0xFF;
int inexperienced = (colour >> 8) & 0xFF;
int blue = shade & 0xFF;

purple = (purple * brightness) >> eight;
green = (inexperienced * brightness) >> 8;
blue = (blue * brightness) >> 8;

strip.setPixelColor(i, strip.Shade(pink, inexperienced, blue));

void hearth()
for (int i = 0; i < neopixelNumber; ++i)
ember(i);

void ember(int i)
int alpha = random(257);
uint32_t shade = lerp(fire_cool, fire_hot, alpha);
setPixel(i, colour);

#define _r(shade) (((colour)>>16)&0xFF)
#define _g(colour) (((colour)>>8)&0xFF)
#outline _b(shade) ((colour)&0xFF)

uint32_t lerp(uint32_t color0, uint32_t color1, int alpha)
int r = (_r(color0) * (256-alpha) + _r(color1) * alpha) >> eight;
int g = (_g(color0) * (256-alpha) + _g(color1) * alpha) >> eight;
int b = (_b(color0) * (256-alpha) + _b(color1) * alpha) >> 8;
return strip.Shade(r, g, b);

After I airbrushed the blade blue the LEDs diffused fairly properly, so I was proud of how it turned out.

The electronics and battery have been hidden on the within of the PVC deal with, and the pommel pulls off so I can get at them.

The final effect seems to be actually good!

Crafting the Sword

Ok. So now we’ve a glowy blade, now we’ve to make it right into a sword.

I used superglue and scorching glue to stick every half to the blade. The worbla ‘wings’ have been then heated up and squished collectively around the sides of the transpArt blade.

The reference has the blade and handle float individually, however gravity doesn’t work that approach in the actual world unfortunately. I tried making a clear piece out of transpArt to connect the 2 halves, nevertheless it wasn’t fairly robust sufficient (and floppy blades will not be what I’m after). So I simply used regular worbla. This also acquired wrapped around the PVC deal with.

I made the ornamental hilt the same means as the wings, using my soldering iron to burn designs into the foam.

This additionally was wrapped in worbla, and I used a device to press the strains back in.

Right here’s what it appeared like all put together with the detail pieces, and the connecting piece is robust enough to carry the blade.

I wasn’t solely proud of the seams the place the wings got here collectively, so I combined up some Apoxie Sculpt and smoothed them over. It’s a simple method to get a seamless impact with out having to dremel the sides– which may get kind of messy.

One in every of my favorite points of the design of this sword is the eagle wings that wrap across the blade. Using my blueprint I reduce them out of EVA foam flooring mat. I used my soldering iron (you may also use a scorching knife) to burn in the decorative channel.

I then coated this with worbla, electing to make use of the fold-over technique to save lots of materials because you woudn’t see the underside anyway. You should use sculpting tools to press designs into the worbla, however it works better if the foam already has indents to start out with.

Priming & Painting

Naked props by no means look nearly as good as you want them to, but the paint job is what makes the magic come to life!

Usually I exploit 6+ coats of wooden glue to seal my WFA tasks, but since I had been given Flexbond, I made a decision to attempt that out as an alternative since I heard it could possibly make worbla clean in two or three.

The Flexbond worked fairly nicely, however in contrast to wood glue, it isn’t self leveling, so brush strokes have been evident even when you have been being careful (which becomes a problem with metallic things, oops). I ended up using three coats, but I in all probability ought to have gone to 4 to make things additional clean.

After the whole lot had dried, I base-coated the whole lot with either blue, black, or a yellow gold utilizing my airbrush. From here I wish to build up shadows and highlights.

My next step was so as to add rose gold accents that might add depth– since yellow gold appears tremendous pretend and plastic-y by itself.

Because the blade was already painted and I didn’t need to get gold on it I like to make use of scraps of worbla or cardboard to stop overspray. It’s quicker than using masking tape, however I like to recommend that in case you use this technique you have to be experienced together with your airbrush.

To add much more depth as well as some weathering, I combined up an virtually black burnt sienna colour, and sprayed areas I needed to have more shadow. I also applied this as a wash to the channels that I minimize earlier with my soldering iron.

The ultimate step is to hit the sides and raised areas with a gold paint pen. They can be fickle though, so watch out that it not spurt ink all over your challenge!

For silvery metals I wish to sponge on gunmetal and aluminum coloured paint using a paper towel or sponge to get a more steel-like look.

As with the gold areas, I spotlight the sides with a silver paint pen, to add some weathering, and in addition to make the small print pop.

The handle was wrapped with leather to cover the PVC pipe, and a few particulars have been painted on. And now you’re completed!

Ultimate Gallery

All in all, I’m very proud of how my undertaking tuned out, and I hope you find this handy to make glowing or clear blades for different tasks!